MOt fail on rust

I would replace a bit of floor as well, you can't make anything stick to that heavily rusted metal up there, you will blow right through it with even the lowest welding current. You should take out the carpets, sound-proofing etc anyway or you will set it on fire.

i thought under mot laws the tester was not allowed to use a implement to determin any rot ie screw drivers hammers etc or am i wrong

I think they are allowed to prod something if it looks suspect, if it's solid or not will be obvious after a prod.

They aren't allowed to remove underseal or lift carpets, remove backing panels e.t.c. He needs a good slap on the wrists.... :) Good job he found the rust tho... It means it can get sorted :)

As said above, be mindful of the fire risk. Also if you're electric welding, disconnect the battery. Best of luck

This is done from memory - I've got to fit a set of heated mirrors to Sweden's finest sporting saloon come spring - so it'll serve me as an aide-memoire as well...... Removing the interior trim is reasonably straightforward, though getting the seats out requires space and some lateral thinking. Unbolt the seats (13mm bolts/nuts) but watch the studs at the front: they're captive (Ha-b:o@d$-ha) and lift them out; disconect the seat-heater feeds and seat-belt warning feeds if they're still connected. Obviously the driver's seat needs to stay if you're moving the car. From memory, the easiest way to get the seats out of the car is by pivoting them around the outer front stud. The console should be taken out also: undo the two Phillips screws that appear with the seats out at the rear of the unit, watch the locating lug at the front otherwise you'll break the bottom of the unit (been there, done that) and lift it out. Again, watch out for electrical looms - mirrors, rear courtesy lamp, etc. Unbolt the seatbelt stalks - I'm not certain about this as they may be attached through the rear carpet. Take the kickplate covers off - they'll pull off with a firm tug - next. Undo the securing screws for the console - there are two at the bottom of the console and the obvious ones for the two side panels. Now you can lift the front carpet up and over the gear lever and take it for cleaning; and run the vacuum cleaner over the rest of the interior - subject to approval from the Controller of Thought, Word, Deed and Finance, aka SWMBO/Her Indoors. Once you've finished burning metal you can re-assemble the town's largest Airfix kit. (Reversal is the replacement of removal, to correctly quote the Haynes manuals.)

Thanks for the advice. I realized after a while that I didn't need to get the seat out after all, (sorry for wasting your time) I pulled up the carpet in the drivers footwell, I was quite surprised to see a loose metal plate covering a dip in the floor, for a moment I thought it was some kind of previous superbodge but then it became clear that it is meant to be like that. The rusty bit was in quite an awkward spot, just underneath and forward of the outrigger thingy. I cut it all out with the grinder and replaced it, I even managed to incorporate the plug hole into the repair piece. It's not finished yet, I ran out of daylight, the wind got up and then the :lightbulb: went in my worklight at about half past six, (something was telling me to pack up) I had managed to weld the floor mostly up and did about half of the welding on the outrigger repair. I will finish it off as soon as I can but for now its bare metal, humph, no choice really. some pics for those who are interested... The daft thing is that the MOT man said I should "weld a plate on top of the outrigger" and that would be ok.

Hi, Looks like you'll have that up and running in no time at all... :) Have to have a play with my welder and see what damage I could get up to!!! :) Des. . . ;)